Sleek. Modern. Contemporary. Symmetrical. Geometric. Bold. These are all adjectives devoted supporters of the Princess cut have used to describe it’s look and style. It’s a cut proudly worn by actress Kate Bosworth on her engagement ring along with being the choice cut for many fellow brides to be.
This kind of cut, also known as the ‘Square Modified Brilliant cut’ is one of the most popular cuts seen on engagement rings today. The cut is similar to the equally popular Round Brilliant Cut due to their similar facet cuts, however the biggest difference is the Princess cut sports the distinctive square crown.
Your Guide to the Modern and Stylish Princess Cut
Before we get any further let’s clarify a few basic jewelers’ terms.
Crown: The ‘top’ portion of the jewel.
Girdle: The slim area between the crown and the pavilion.
Pavilion: The underside of the jewel. This is pyramid shaped on this kind of jewellry.
Facet: The flat polished surfaces of the jewel. A jewel with a Princess cut has a square ‘table facet’ on the crown. Facets allow light to enter and reflect causing the gem to sparkle.
The cut is arguably the most important factor when deciding which ring compliments your style. This cut compliments ladies with long elegant fingers. It is a great choice for someone with a contemporary and sophisticated sense of fashion. The cut changes the look of the engagement ring and is part of what makes the ring unique to you.
Choosing this kind of engagement ring speaks volumes about your style and personality. This is feminine and romantic without being frilly. It is a cut that communicates boldness and confidence, a woman who is not afraid of being noticed-for all the right reasons. This cut is for the contemporary woman who embraces both the modern and womanly aspects of herself.
The pavilion on this cut is a symmetrical inverted pyramid shape. The facets on the pavilion are cut in a chevron shape. This cut can have two, three or four sets of chevrons on the pavilion which give the gem the signature cross pattern that can be seen from the table facet. The latest version of this kind of cut, the PrincessPlus has five chevrons and many more facets then the standard cut.
Certainly, the number of chevrons on a Princess cut matter. Each count gives the jewel a different look. It is a matter of preference. A jewel with two chevrons will appear chunky and have more contrast of light and dark that can be seen. A jewel with four chevrons has smaller facets and the light appears to be dispersed more evenly throughout the jewel. It is also important to note that smaller jewels will accommodate less chevrons and larger jewels should have more.
Generally the crown of this type of jewel will be square or so close to square the naked eye can not perceive the difference, but they can also be rectangular. The ratio of the square should be no higher then 1.05 for a solitary setting or else you will be able to notice the jewel is not exactly square. A ratio higher than 1.05 can work for a ring with side jewels, because the side jewels will counteract the long sides of a gem that is not exactly square.
The table facet of this kind of cut is large relative to other facets on the jewel. The sides of the crown are bezeled. The limited number of facets on the crown gives this kind of jewellry its striking appearance, but the limitation also means that all other facets must be placed on the pavilion.
While the facet count can be higher or lower, most standard Princess cut jewels have either 58 or 76 facets. The count can be as high as 144 on highly specialized jewels. If the jewel has a good ratio of depth to width and the facets are precisely symmetrical, the higher facet count will return or reflect more light back through the top of the jewel, making it more brilliant. The depth of the jewel should be larger then the table to give the best brilliance.
It is best for the this kind of jewel to be set in prongs with one prong at each corner to protect the corners which are vulnerable to chipping. This is because the corners of the gem are often at or near the edge of the rough uncut stone and this location frequently has more inclusions then other parts of the gem. These inclusions are often covered by the prongs at the corner of the jewel. These prongs are frequently ‘V’ shaped for added protection and used in order to cover inclusions and extra unintended facets.
About the price
The cut itself is actually more economical then other cuts such as the brilliant round because the Princess cut retains about 80% of the jewel during cutting vs. the popular round brilliant cut which loses up to 50% of its size during cutting. Carat per carat the same weight round cut will cost more because a larger stone was needed to start with.
When comparing round cut gems with princess cut gems of similar weight, this cut has the illusion of being larger because of the square crown. This is another factor that makes this cut so popular.
While we are on the topic of price I want to share something with you. Many people focus of carat weight without giving as much preference to the brilliance of the jewel. Jewelry cutters realize this and often take measures to ensure that the jewel keep most of its weight. To do this some jewelers will cut the gem with a larger girdle which holds a significant amount of weight. The issue with this is that a thicker girdle makes for a less brilliant jewel so you end up paying more for a jewel that sparkles less. Before you buy you might want to take a look at the girdle thickness so you can have the best of both carat weight and sparkle.
If you would like to see other types check the cheap halo engagement rings here!
Hopefully this guide gave you some tips to select your cheap princess cut engagement ring and since we did not say it at the start, Congratulations on your engagement!